Buying a used electric car: the battery-first checklist

Why the used market is different

A combustion car’s condition is mostly about the engine, gearbox and body. An electric car’s condition is mostly about the battery pack, which represents 30–40 % of the vehicle’s value. Two cars with identical mileage can have very different remaining capacity depending on how they were charged, where they were parked and how often they were fast-charged.

The good news: battery degradation is slow, predictable and measurable. The bad news: sellers rarely volunteer the data.

Step 1: get a real state-of-health report

The dashboard percentage is not state of health. It is an estimate of current charge relative to current usable capacity, which the BMS may have already reduced.

Ask for a diagnostic report showing:

• measured capacity in kWh versus the original nominal capacity;
• cell voltage balance;
• number of DC fast-charging sessions, if available;
• any fault codes stored in the BMS.

Manufacturers’ dealers can produce this. Independent EV specialists can too, usually for €80–150. On a €20,000 purchase, it is the best money you will spend.

Reading the result: above 90 % after five years is excellent; 85–90 % is normal; 80–85 % deserves a discount; below 80 % means the car is close to the warranty threshold and should be priced accordingly.

Step 2: check the warranty

Most manufacturers warrant the battery for eight years or 160,000 km at 70 % capacity. Confirm three things:

1. The car is still within the window (age and mileage).
2. The warranty transfers to a second owner — usually yes, but not always.
3. Servicing has been done according to the schedule, since missed services can void it.

A car with 18 months of battery warranty left is worth materially more than an identical one with none.

Step 3: verify the charging hardware

Charging is where older cars age fastest.

• Connector type. In Europe, CCS2 is the standard for DC fast charging. Early cars with CHAdeMO (Nissan Leaf, Mitsubishi i-MiEV) still work, but the network is shrinking.
• Maximum DC power. A car limited to 50 kW turns a 600 km trip into a series of 45-minute stops. 80–100 kW is a reasonable minimum for a main car.
• Onboard AC charger. 7.4 kW single-phase is fine at home; 11 kW three-phase is better if you have the supply.
• Cable and accessories. A replacement Type 2 cable costs €150–300; check it is included.

Step 4: inspect the software and connected services

Modern electric cars are software products. Check:

• whether the infotainment still receives updates;
• whether remote features (preconditioning, charging schedule) still work, since some depend on a subscription;
• whether the manufacturer still supports the model’s app;
• recalls: ask for the VIN and check the manufacturer’s recall portal.

A car whose connected services have been discontinued loses real usability.

Step 5: the usual mechanical checks still apply

• Tyres: EVs wear them faster; uneven wear suggests hard driving or suspension issues.
• Brakes: discs can rust from under-use on cars that rely heavily on regenerative braking. Test a hard stop.
• Suspension: battery weight stresses bushings and dampers.
• Air conditioning: check it cools properly; heat pumps are expensive to repair.
• Body and underbody: battery packs sit low; look for impact damage or corrosion on the tray.

What to avoid

Cars with no battery report. Walk away or insist on one before negotiating.

Cars just outside the battery warranty with an SOH near 80 %.

Early small-battery models used as main cars. A 24 kWh pack with 120 km of real range and 50 kW charging is a compromise most buyers regret.

Imports with an unknown charging history. Fast-charge-heavy use in hot climates accelerates degradation.

Vehicles from brands that have left the market. Parts and software support become a nightmare.

What to pay

Used electric prices have stabilised after the sharp correction of 2024–2025. As a rule:

• three-year-old compact EV with 45,000 km: 50–60 % of the original price;
• five-year-old with 80,000 km: 35–45 %;
• early models (2015–2018) with small batteries: 20–30 %, and falling.

Compare against the cost of a new entry-level model. When a new city car with a warranty costs €24,000, a five-year-old compact at €18,000 is not automatically the better buy.

The negotiation levers

• SOH below 90 %: ask for a price adjustment proportional to the remaining capacity.
• Tyres near the limit: €400–800.
• Warranty expiring soon: quantify the risk.
• Missing charging cable or service history: legitimate discounts.

A well-inspected used electric car is one of the smartest purchases in the current market. The key is to treat the battery as the engine, the gearbox and the fuel tank combined — because that is exactly what it is.