- Expect 80–90 % of the WLTP figure in mixed driving, and 55–70 % on the motorway in winter.
- Home charging costs €2.50–4 per 100 km, against €8–14 on a public fast charger.
- An LFP battery suits a city car, an NMC battery a long-distance car.
- Total cost (purchase, energy, servicing, depreciation) matters more than the sticker price.
What an electric car actually is
An electric car carries a high-voltage traction battery (usually 40 to 100 kWh), one or two electric motors, and a power electronics unit that converts direct current from the battery into alternating current for the motors. There is no gearbox in the conventional sense, no clutch, no exhaust.
The consequences matter more than the technology itself:
- Instant torque. Maximum torque is available from standstill, which is why even a modest electric car feels quick in town.
- Regenerative braking. Lifting off the accelerator recovers energy and slows the car, extending brake life considerably.
- No idling consumption. Traffic jams cost almost nothing in energy, unlike a combustion engine.
- Temperature sensitivity. A cold battery accepts charge more slowly and delivers less range. This is the single biggest practical difference from a petrol car.
The four criteria that decide everything
1. Usable range, not WLTP range
The WLTP figure is a laboratory result. In real use, count on 80–90 % in mixed, mild-weather driving, 65–75 % on a motorway at 130 km/h, and 50–60 % in freezing conditions with the heating on. A car rated at 500 km therefore covers roughly 350–450 km in daily use, and 250–300 km on a winter motorway run.
Size the battery on your regular week, not on the two long trips a year. A 50 kWh battery covers about 300 km of real mixed driving, which is enough for most households.
2. Charging power and, above all, the charging curve
Peak charging power is a marketing number. What matters is the curve: how long the car holds high power before tapering off. A model that holds 120 kW up to 80 % will beat one that peaks at 250 kW for ninety seconds.
Practical benchmarks for a 60–80 kWh battery:
- 10–80 % in 20–25 minutes: excellent, a genuine motorway tool.
- 10–80 % in 30–35 minutes: perfectly usable.
- 10–80 % in 45 minutes or more: acceptable only if you rarely travel long distances.
3. Battery chemistry
Two families dominate:
- LFP (lithium iron phosphate): cheaper, very durable, tolerates daily charging to 100 %, but heavier and weaker in extreme cold. Ideal for city cars and standard-range models.
- NMC / NCA (nickel manganese cobalt / nickel cobalt aluminium): more energy per kilogram, better cold performance and faster charging, but more expensive and happier at 80 % daily charge. Suited to long-distance cars.
4. Total cost per kilometre
The purchase price is only the entry ticket. Over four or five years, the ranking changes completely once you include:
- Energy: €2–4 per 100 km at home, €8–14 on public fast chargers.
- Servicing: 30–40 % cheaper than combustion.
- Insurance: often higher, because of repair costs on the battery and sensors.
- Depreciation: the largest single item, from 40 % to 60 % after five years depending on the model.
Choosing a body style
Body style affects efficiency more than the badge. A low, aerodynamic sedan uses 15–25 % less energy than an SUV on the same battery. A city car is the most efficient of all, but pays for it in space and motorway comfort.
| Body style | Consumption | Typical WLTP range | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| City car | 12–16 kWh/100 km | 200–420 km | Urban and suburban use, second car |
| Sedan | 14–18 kWh/100 km | 400–650 km | High mileage, long motorway trips |
| SUV | 17–22 kWh/100 km | 350–600 km | Families, high seating position |
| Estate | 15–19 kWh/100 km | 400–600 km | Families who carry a lot |
| MPV | 17–23 kWh/100 km | 350–550 km | Five to seven seats |
| Pickup / van | 20–32 kWh/100 km | 200–550 km | Work, towing, deliveries |
The myths worth dropping
“The battery dies after five years.” Modern packs are warranted for eight years or 160,000 km at 70 % capacity, and most exceed that comfortably. Degradation is real but gradual: 1–2 % a year in normal use.
“You can never charge on a long trip.” The European fast-charging network now covers almost every motorway corridor. The real constraint is not coverage but reliability of individual chargers, which varies by network.
“Electric cars are only for short trips.” A modern 77 kWh sedan covers 400–450 km at motorway speed and recharges in 25 minutes. That is a longer effective day than most combustion cars manage with a single tank and a coffee stop.
“They are worse for the climate.” Over the full life cycle, battery-electric cars emit less CO₂ than combustion cars in most European electricity mixes, according to ADEME and IEA analyses. The battery manufacturing debt is repaid after 20,000–50,000 km.
A practical buying checklist
- Measure a typical week with a trip-logger app, including the occasional long trip.
- Check charging at home. A rented flat without a garage changes the calculation entirely.
- Compare charging curves, not peak power, on a site that publishes test data.
- Sit in the back and load the boot with your actual luggage.
- Check the warranty on the battery and the after-sales network near you.
- Get an insurance quote before signing, especially for high-power versions.
- Test a real charging session on a public charger during the test drive.
What to budget
For a new compact electric car in 2026, expect €30,000–45,000 before incentives. Entry-level city cars start around €17,000–25,000; long-range sedans and SUVs run €45,000–70,000. On the used market, a three-year-old compact with 60,000 km typically trades at 50–60 % of its original price.
Energy is the cheapest part of ownership if you can charge at home: about €450–700 a year for 15,000 km. If you depend on public fast charging, budget three to four times more.
Frequently asked questions
Which electric car should a first-time buyer choose?
For urban and suburban use, a 40–52 kWh city car is enough: Renault 5 E-Tech, Peugeot e-208, Citroën ë-C3, Kia EV3. It charges from a reinforced socket, costs €2–3 per 100 km and limits financial risk. If you drive more than 20,000 km a year on motorways, aim instead for a sedan or SUV with a 70 kWh+ battery and at least 150 kW fast charging.
Is an electric car more expensive to maintain?
No — it costs 30–40 % less: no oil changes, no timing belt, no spark plugs, and regenerative braking that preserves the pads. The remaining items are tyres (faster wear due to weight), filters, brake fluid and occasionally the air conditioning.
What is the difference between an electric car and a plug-in hybrid?
A battery-electric car has only electric motors and charges only from a plug. A plug-in hybrid combines a combustion engine with a 10–20 kWh battery: 40–90 km of electric range, then fuel consumption. For urban use with daily charging, a full electric car is cheaper and simpler.
Do I need to install a charging point for an electric car?
Not necessarily. A 16 A reinforced socket adds 70–90 km overnight, which covers everyday use. A 7.4 kW wallbox becomes useful beyond 50 km a day, or to charge on off-peak rates and for two vehicles.